Hello from southern Africa! This particular tour is quite a trip, since it consists of two concerts in Zimbabwe’s capital city of Harare, one concert in Durban, South Africa, and then back to Zimbabwe for two more concerts in Bulawayo. In addition, I have come to see countless members of my father’s side of the family, and as we all know, nothing can ever prepare anyone for family. It is both a personal and professional trip, so the approach to this log differs slightly.

Just preparing for the trip takes a week of packing and reflection. I keep wondering whether or not I’m forgetting someone. Well, of course I have! When dealing with a large family where my father was one of eight children of my grandfather’s second of three wives there is no way not to forget someone. I do the best I can, and scramble out the door to Atlanta where I stay overnight before the direct flight to Johannesburg.

I arrive at the hotel October 12th in the evening with mixed emotions - excitement runs through my veins at the thought of returning to my father’s home and seeing my grandmother, and dread at such a long plane ride and trip away from Phoenix. I know I need to rest, so I climb into bed for some shut-eye. I leave my cell phone on vibrate mode just in case anyone needs to reach me. My grandmother has not been well, and one of my cousins has been attending to her with malaria medication and the like. It’s my hope to get her a wheelchair and a consultation with a doctor concerning her eyes. Since I first met her in 1998 she has not been able to see and has barely been able to walk. Last time I was there in 2001 she was getting pushed around in a wheelbarrow. No, this time we would come up with a solution.

I hear the phone vibrate on the floor as I toss and turn.

“No, I can’t reach for that now,” I think in a daze. “I have to get up in a couple hours to get ready for the flight.”

I get up around 5 am and finally listen to the messages, “Thula, it’s your cousin. Don’t panic. Grandma has died.” I can’t believe it. Of course I’m in a state of shock, but what can I do except prepare for the flight? Being upset will change nothing. She was 87 years old and lead quite a life. I wish I could do more for her even now.

I arrive in Harare exhausted. Another close cousin and friends are at the airport to meet me. There is no time for discussion about anything, because the next day is booked with rehearsals. I awake on Friday, October 15th with family lunch plans, rehearsal plans with piano, dinner plans, and evening rehearsal plans with orchestra. There is no time for jet-lag, plus I have to get my hands working after the long flight. It’s difficult to find time to practice on the road, especially when there’s so much do. Extra familial obligations make the situation even more overwhelming. But, I can’t explain that to my relatives a.) out of respect, and b.) because it’s been so long since I’ve seen them. I consign myself to knowing that the next three weeks are going to wear me out.

The first concert takes place on October 17th with the Harare Chamber Orchestra at the Harare International School, so I meet with conductor Corrado Trinici the 15th evening before the first rehearsal. We discuss everything we’re going to do over some pizza, salad, and tea. Then it’s off to rehearsal to meet the orchestra: four firsts, four seconds, two violas, four cellos, and one bass. The next two days fly by with more of the same grueling schedule. The concert is very well attended, the orchestra plays their hearts out, the audience is truly appreciative, and hopefully family members are enjoying my company.

Rehearsing with pianist Jeanette Micklem is a delight. She’s a fine musician. She and her husband are wonderful hosts, as I spend nearly every afternoon in Harare sawing away on my instrument with her sensitive company. It’s a joy to make music like this, and in a way a soothing respite from familial obligations. I think in every musician there’s a little escapism. It’s nice to know that the music is there wherever whenever.

Our recital October 19th at Harry Margolis Hall goes very well, and once again it’s a great crowd. I see some school kids in uniform and find out only after the concert that Celebrity Subscription Concerts of Harare has instituted a new policy to allow children in uniform in for free. That really does my heart good, because there is no reason (other than transport) why any young person in Harare couldn’t attend the concert.

After the concert there is no time to relax. I collect some haute couture clothing Zimbabwean-style designed and made by my talented cousin who took such close care of my grandmother. There’s no time to try anything on, because the post-concert reception has already begun. I will wear her clothing in Durban for sure. It’s wonderful visiting with people, but I have to prepare to leave Harare at 5:30 am for South Africa. I haven’t received a rehearsal schedule or itinerary yet, so what awaits me is a mystery.

I arrive in Durban exhausted and hot. Everywhere I’ve been it’s been humid and rainy. I’m wearing sweatpants and a long-sleeved black cotton shirt - great for traveling on planes but terrible for moving around in the late-spring heat. I arrive to be greeted by transport waiting for Mr. Ngwenyama. I explain that that is me, and with some trepidation this man drives me to the Royal Hotel in downtown Durban.

I attempt to check in, looking forward to taking a nice shower, and the KwaZulu-Natal Philharmonic Orchestra Manager (and violist) Alasdair Muir runs up to me and says, “The orchestra is waiting for you.”

“What?” I think. “You mean to tell me the orchestra is rehearsing now?”

“Yes,” Alasdair responds. “There was a mix-up.”

“There certainly was,” I thought. I had had a nagging feeling on the plane that this would happen, so I had studied my score between Zimbabwe and South Africa that morning.

Alasdair asked in a panic, “So, can you come right now?” What could I say? No? Sometimes you really have to grin and bear it.

“OK, fine. Let’s do it. What other solution is there if there’s no other rehearsal today and the concert is tomorrow?” I weakly respond. I’m in no mood.

I stow the luggage at the hotel, grab the instrument, and run down the street with Alasdair. It’s pleading just to take two minutes to use the restroom and wash my hands. Now that’s inappropriate pressure to say the least.

I walk into the rehearsal hall to a group of very fine musicians under the direction of British conductor Adrian Sunshine. Explanations to my tardiness abound, how I’ve been up since early, etc. I unpack and try to move my fingers a bit. We jump in with the rehearsal and somehow get through it. It’s something not to be relished. The worst part is that, because of the stressful situation, my ability to present the music the way I would like to is hampered, and that to me is letting the other musicians down. I talk a bit with the conductor afterwards, and he seems to be quite understanding of the whole situation.

Sunshine confidently states, “I guess you’re a real professional now.”

“Ha ha,” I think.

It’s all worth it though for the concert. Tomorrow, October 21st, the KwaZulu Natal Philharmonic Orchestra celebrates its 21st anniversary as well as Bongani Tembe’s 10th anniversary as Chief Executive and Artistic Director of the orchestra. What an honor it is to be invited to perform for this momentous occasion. After a night’s rest all is well. The dress goes smoothly, and the concert is a great success with a near full house at the beautiful Durban City Hall. Everything is recorded for South African Broadcasting Corporation (SABC), and Rutter’s Magnificat is stunningly performed by the Drakensberg Boys’ Choir. This is one awesome group! These kids sound like little angels on stage, and I have never been a ‘boys’ choir’ fan. They are darling, but even cuter still after the concert running around backstage during all the festivities.

Since this is the second time I’ve played with the orchestra the reception allow me quality catch-up with the man of the evening and his wife Linda Bukhosini. Their story is amazing.

As Oben Mlaba, the mayor of Durban, states, “Bongani and Linda were two township kids who were able to secure coveted places at Julliard when unable to get into tertiary music institutions in South Africa. And what did they do? They came back home to change things.” Speaking with Mayor Mlaba after the concert it is no secret how much this town and orchestra admire Bongani and Linda. The KZNPO is one of the strongest orchestras in South Africa today, and it is fully integrated with the community it represents.

The reception outside the City Hall is wonderful with a live band playing dance music. It feels like a time warp hearing swing. People of all ages are on the floor, and I indulge in a dance or two with some fun-loving orchestra members. The KZNPO has some great people in it! But, I leave for Zimbabwe tomorrow morning again and have rehearsal in Bulawayo with the orchestra tomorrow night, so I can’t stay for long. No fun and games, just work and sleep.

Interesting websites:
Kwa-Zulu Natal Philharmonic Orchestra: www.kznpo.co.za
Drakensberg Boys’ Choir: www.dbchoir.co.za

Upcoming in Part 2:
Concerts in Bulawayo, visits to Mbrengwa, the Khami Ruins, the Great Zimbabwe, and Zvishavane